Spice and Authenticity
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Reading Buettner made me think about the ongoing gentrification in Mexico City and its impact on Mexican cuisine. In July, the owner of the famous taco stand “Los Amigos” revealed in an interview that he removed chile serrano from the pico de gallo because international tourists often complained about the spiciness. “It attracts more people,” he said. Now, Mexican cuisine not only has to appeal to white taste buds abroad, but it’s also being altered within Mexico itself, stripping away its essence to cater to Westerners.
This text also made me reflect on some personal experiences I've had. Ever since my mother remarried a Spanish man, he has sadly taken over the cooking in our household, and I’m sorry to say, but that man doesn’t know how to give any food taste. I always try to suggest adding lemon, spice, sazón—something, anything, to give his grilled fish some FLAVOR. But he always refuses, insisting that the spices we use overpower the natural flavor of the dish. He often comments that in Mexico, everything tastes spicy, not allowing you to enjoy the food, criticizing my sisters and me for eating salsa and lime with every meal. It’s not an issue, but it’s definitely annoying.
In Buettner’s reading, authenticity is a complex concept shaped by various social and cultural dynamics. Curry houses in Britain were often ridiculed for their décor and criticized for serving “inauthentic” food, always emphasizing the “red flock wallpaper.” Indian actress Madhur Jaffrey claimed that many restaurant owners and chefs had come to Britain as workers lacking formal qualifications, simply copying menus from competitors, resulting in a generalized version of Indian cuisine that failed to represent regional diversity. Brian Spooner presents the idea that authenticity is shaped by those seeking to assert their social position—Bombay Brasserie – an upscale Indian restaurant that promotes regional Indian cuisine and targets affluent customers, demonstrates how these establishments, contrasted with curry houses, position themselves as more prestigious. The curry houses being “too influenced” by Bangladeshi or Pakistani interpretation of Indian food and the higher-status establishments serving “real” Indian regional food highlights how authenticity is used to reinforce social dominance.